Clarity
While flawless Diamonds are the rarest, a Diamond does not need to be flawless to be stunning!
Unlike carat weight or color, the clarity of a Diamond is a matter of judgment by a trained Gemologist. Very few Diamonds are truly without inclusions. Nearly all have internal imperfections (inclusions) or surface irregularities (blemishes). These characteristics of nature give each stone its own unique signature or fingerprint which help to identify it as a 100% natural diamond.
Many people make clarity the least important of the 4 C's when purchasing their Diamonds. The rationale is obvious... when your loved one shows the ring to his or her friends, the likelihood that one of them will pull out a 10x microscope to examine inclusions on the Diamond are very slim. Given that, why spend a lot of money on a VVS diamond when an SI2 brilliant cut diamond may look the same to the naked eye. It really comes down to per
sonal preference and what you value most. We offer a wide variety of color and clarity grades to meet all your diamond needs and desires.
Clarity Grades
FL Flawless.
IF Internally Flawless. Only external flaws are present, which can be removed by further polishing the stone.
VVS1, VVS2 Very Very Slightly Included. In this grade of Diamond usually only an expert can detect inclusions or flaws with 10x's magnification. By definition, if you can see a flaw from the top of the Diamond, it is a VVS2 or lower. Otherwise, if only detected when viewing from the bottom of the stone, then it's typically a VVS1.
VS1, VS2 Very Slightly Included. Diamonds in this clarity grade are typically "eye clean" or free from visual inclusions with the naked eye. Under 10x's magnification inclusions will be very slight.
SI1, SI2, SI3 Slightly Included. Depending on the diamond, these clarity grades may also be "eye clean" or free from visual inclusions or flaws. Under 10x's magnification some inclusions will be seen.
I1 Imperfect. Depending on the stone, at this clarity grade inclusions may and usually become slightly visible. How visible depends on the Diamond, location, and type of inclusion. A white feather may not be offensive and your friends may never notice it, but you will most likely know its there.
I2 Imperfect. Flaws can be noticed with the naked eye. Consider avoiding I2 and I3 stones.
I3 Imperfect. Larger or more numerous flaws can be noticed with the naked eye.
Cut
The "Cut" refers to the shape of the stone and also its angles, proportions, polish and symmetry. The way a Diamond is cut determines how light enters and leaves the stone which determines how much "life" or "fire" a Diamond will have.
An Ideal Cut Round Diamond has 58 different surfaces, or facets. Those on the crown or top gather light into the center of the stone, while the pavilions facets bounce the light back and forth before reflecting it back out through the crown.
Only a small deviation of the angles or shapes of the facets will allow light to "leak" from the stone and cause it to lose much of its natural brilliance. This also occurs if too many facets are cut into the stone.
Depth percentage is the depth of the Diamond (table to culet) divided by the width or the Diamond. The higher the depth percentage, the deeper the stone looks in appearance. The lower the depth percentage the shallower the stone looks - For example a Diamond with a table of 3.95mm and a width or 6.73mm, equal a table percentage of 59%. For a Round Diamond, a good target for the table percentage is 53-59%. Do not confuse a small table with a small diameter. Generally, you want the bigger size diameter and the smaller table percentage for the most beautiful Round Diamonds. It is also interesting to note that "Round" Diamonds are usually not perfect circles. The length and width measurements may be slightly different though usually undetectable without a measuring caliper.
Diamond Table Size or Diameter – is the length of the Table of the Diamond located at the Crown of a Round Brilliant Diamond.
Girdle Thickness – is the thickness of the Girdle, located at the side of the Diamond where the Girdle Facets and Lower Girdle Facets meet.
Crown Height – is the measurement from the Girdle to the Table of the Diamond.
Pavilion Depth – is the measurement from the Girdle to the Culet (the bottom tip of the Diamond).
Total Depth – is the Crown height, plus the Pavilion depth.
Crown Angle – is the angle of the Crown relative to the Girdle.
Pavilion Angle – is the angle of the Pavilion relative to the Girdle.
Culet – is the bottom tip of the Diamond.
Star Length – is the length of the Star Facet located at the Crown.
Half Facet Length – is the length of the Pavilion Facet.
Upper Girdle Facets – are those located above the Girdle and on the top of the Diamond.
Kite Facets – are located at the top of the Round Brilliant Diamond and are shaped like a kite.
Star Facets – are also located on the top of the Diamond but closer to the side of the Diamond and adjacent to the Kite Facet
Lover Girdle Facets – are those located below the Girdle and on the top bottom part of the Diamond.
Pavilion Facets – are those located below the Girdle of the Diamond.
Culet – is the pointed part of the Diamond located at the very bottom of a Round Diamond.
Polish – The Polish Grade is the measure of the visibility of polishing lines on the surface of the Diamond when vied with 10x magnification or the unaided eye. These polish lines are caused by microscopic diamond crystals pulled across the Diamond facet by the polishing wheel during the Diamond cutting process. Polish lines are similar to the streaks left on a car after it is waxed. Polish for Diamonds is usually graded into five categories: Excellent, Very Good, Good, Fair and Poor. For Round Brilliant and fancy-cut Diamonds a polish grade of Good or Better is generally preferred.
Symmetry - refers to the external balance and alignment of the facets. When you look at diamonds, girdles are not always perfectly round and tables are not always perfect octagons. Sometimes facets are distorted and sometime they look as though their points have been lopped off. Sometimes the Table tilts towards the Girdle plane, sometimes it is off-center, and sometimes the girdle can look almost warped. The Culet may not be centered, and the Bezels and Pavilion mains may not be directly opposite each other. Symmetry for Diamonds is usually graded into five categories: Excellent, Very Good, Good Fair and Poor. For Round Diamonds, a symmetry grade of Very Good or better is generally preferred. For Fancy-Cut Diamonds, symmetry grade of Good or better is generally fine.
Diamond and Gemstone Shapes
ROUND BRILLIANT CUT
The ROUND BRILLIANT CUT DIAMOND is the most coveted of all shapes. This is because it displays more fire and scintillation, or light dispersion than any other Diamond shape. It typically consists of 58 facets, 33 on the crown and 25 on the pavilion. All other Diamond shapes are referred to as "Fancy Shaped" or "Fancy Cut" Diamonds
PRINCESS CUT
The PRINCESS CUT DIAMOND is generally square in shape, with 90-degree angles on each corner. It has a tremendous amount of brilliance, second only to Round Cuts. It can vary greatly in how square or rectangular it is. It is recommended that the Table be between 65-80% and the depth between 65-75%.
EMERALD CUT
The EMERALD CUT DIAMOND can be rectangular or square in shape, have beveled corners and step-cut facets. This shape really shows off the clarity of a Diamond. For a standard looking Emerald Cut, the table should measure between 60-75% and depth between 53-70%.
ASSCHER CUT
The ASSCCHER CUT DIAMOND often called the Square Emerald Cut has cropped corners, and was designed in 1902 by the Asscher Brothers of Holland. The table and depth percentage should measure the same as in an Emerald.
OVAL CUT
The OVAL CUT DIAMOND has stunning brilliance due primarily to its facets, which are similar to those in a Round Diamond. Invented in 1960, the Oval with its visual length can sometimes make a Diamond appear larger than it is. For greatest amount of light dispersion, it is recommended that the length to width ratio be between 1.33 and 1.66. In this case the table should be between 60- 70%.
MARQUISE
The MARQUISE DIAMOND is another elongated cut with pointed ends. It was created for France's Louis XIV who wanted a Diamond that would compare to the smile of the Marquise De Pompadour. Like the Oval, the Marquise visual length can sometimes make a Diamond appear larger than it is. The recommended length to width ratio is between 1.50 and 2.25, with the Table and depth percentages between 53-60% and 50-65% respectively.
PEAR SHAPE
The PEAR SHAPE DIAMOND is a combination of 0val and Marquise cuts. The sparkling teardrop typically has nice proportions, refracts light well, and can be very visually elongating to the eye. Suggested length to width ratio should be between 1.40 and 1.75. Recommended table percentages are between 53-60% and with depth percentage at 50-65%.
RADIANT CUT
The RADIANT CUT DIAMOND is the shape of a rectangle with rounded corners and varies in degree of rectangularity. For a Square Radiant look for a length to width ration between 1.00 and 1.20. For a Rectangular Radiant the length to width ratio should be between 1.50 and 2.00. Regardless of how rectangular, it is recommended that the table be between 65-80% with depth between 65-75% .
HEART SHAPE
The HEART SHAPE DIAMOND may be hard to find, but it is considered to be the most sentimental of all Diamond shapes. It is important to find a heart Diamond with even lobes and a defined outline. Because its shape is very close to that of a Round, it has beautiful brilliance. The length to width ration for a well-proportioned stone is between 0.90-1.10. The depth is recommended at 50-63% with the table between 53-65%.
CUSHION CUT
The CUSION CUT DIAMOND is an antique cut, and is also referred to as a Pillow Cut or Candlelight Diamond. Cushion Cut Diamonds have larger facets and more rounded corners than most cuts as to increase their sparkle under candlelight.
TRIANGLE
The TRIANGLE DIAMOND first designed in Amsterdam, is cut with three symmetrical sides. The corners of a Triangle Cut Diamond may be pointed or rounded as in the Trillion Cuts. The body will vary depending on the stone's characteristics and the cutters' preference.
BAGUETTE
The BAGUETTE DIAMOND can be cut straight or tapered. Although straight Baguette Diamonds can be used as center stones, they are more often than not used as accent Diamonds in rings, pendants and other fine jewelry settings.
Precious Metals and Your Jewelry Settings
White Gold, Yellow Gold or Platinum?
Most fine jewelry settings are made from one of three metals: White Gold, Yellow Gold or Platinum. The popularity of White Gold and Platinum has increased dramatically in recent years.
Here are some basic facts about the differences between White Gold and Platinum.
Purity: Platinum is graded by a Sterling Number that represents parts per thousand of pure Platinum. 900 Sterling is 90% Platinum, 950 Sterling is 95% Platinum and so forth. While White Gold jewelry can be purchased in 10K, most jewelry is made in 14K which is just under 60% pure, or 18K which is 75% pure.
Color: Both White Gold and Platinum are "white" in color. The color of White Gold is actually due to its alloys and plating. Unlike Yellow Gold which is alloyed with copper, silver and zinc, White Gold is typically alloyed with copper, nickel and zinc, resulting in Gold that is light gray in color. White gold jewelry is often times plated with a very hard white metal known as Rhodium. To maintain the full whiteness of White Gold, the Rhodium must be re-plated about every year. Platinum jewelry is naturally "white" and does not require plating, although it can lose its luster over time and become grayer. This can be ameliorated with professional polishing.
Weight: Though Rhodium-plated White Gold and Platinum jewelry are virtually indistinguishable to the casual eye, there is a significant difference in weight. Platinum is a very dense material and therefore much heavier than White Gold.
Durability: Jewelry worn on the hands inevitably received many invisible scratches that dull its appearance. The difference between Platinum and White Gold is that these so called "micro scratches" do not remove Platinum for the ring. Burnishing a Platinum ring will smooth out these blemishes and restore the ring's original appearance.
Cost: Platinum is an extremely rare metal that is 60% denser than Gold and is therefore less malleable. This means that the labor involved to create a Platinum piece of jewelry is more intensive than the same piece of jewelry being made in White Gold. Because of Platinum's natural beauty, endurance and low maintenance requirement, it is an ideal choice for long-term durability.
Is Platinum or White Gold Better? It's really a matter of choice, and what you value most. You can't go wrong with either one. Both Platinum and Gold are absolutely gorgeous! With proper care, either one will both give you a lifetime of beauty and pleasure.
Platinum Facts
-Platinum is the rarest of the precious metals
-Approximately 10 tons of raw ore must be mined to produce just one pure once.
-More than 90% of all Platinum supplies come from South Africa and Russia.
Gold
Gold is one of natures many elements as well as one of the rarest. It possesses a number of desirable physical characteristics that have all contributed to making it one of the most valuable commodities in the world. It has a beautiful natural color, is extremely malleable, and in its pure form is impervious to corrosion of any sort.
Because Gold is malleable in its pure form, it must be alloyed with various other metals to harden it, and in some cases change its color. The metals used in the alloying process include silver, copper, nickel, zinc, tin and manganese.
The proportion by karat weight is shown below.
|
Karat |
Parts Gold to Alloy |
Percentage |
Fineness |
|
10K |
10 / 24 |
41.67% |
417 |
|
14K |
14 / 24 |
58.33% |
583 |
|
18K |
18 / 24 |
75.00% |
750 |
|
22K |
22 / 24 |
91.66% |
917 |
Gold Facts
-Gold's chemical symbol is Au, from Aurora, or dawn.
-Pure gold is 24 karats or 99.999% pure and is nearly impossible to refine.
-It has a density of 19.32 g/cm3, which gives it a heavy atomic weight of 196.9665 g/atom.
-By law, all jewelry is required to be stamped with the metal grade.
Titanium
Titanium is known for its superior strength, and is naturally platinum gray color. After applying heat or electricity it becomes a brilliant white metal in its purest form. It also holds refractive properties, which means it can easily be manipulated into other colors. Titanium, which is lighter than steel but just as strong, is the metal of choice in space shuttles. (85% of the space shuttle's structure is Titanium.)
Titanium Facts
-Titanium was discovered in the 1700's, but named in the 1900's.
-Titanium's atomic number is 22 with an atomic weight of 47.9.
-Titanium has a melting point of 3020 F and a boiling point of 5949 F.
-Titanium has the highest strength to weight ratio of ANY known element.
-Titanium is created by a Supernova, the largest cosmic explosion of a celestial star.
-Titanium is best known for its strength and durability.
-Titanium is lightweight, which makes it attractive to men who don't like heavy jewelry.
-Titanium can be sized, engraved and in an emergency cut off the hand.
-Titanium will not rust, tarnish, gouge or deform.
-Titanium is 100% Hypoallergenic.
Tungsten Facts
-Tungsten was discovered in 1783
-Tungsten is a naturally occurring element that is a white to steel gray metal.
- Its name is derived from the Swedish words "tung" and "sten" for heavy stone.
-Tungsten's atomic number is 74 with an atomic weight of 183.84.
-It has a melting point of 6192 F (2nd highest of all elements) and a boiling point of 10031F.
-Tungsten's corrosion resistance is excellent.
-Tungsten is heavier than Titanium, which gives it a Gold-like feel.
-Tungsten is 10 times harder than 18K Gold, 5 times harder than steel.
-Tungsten provides the greatest scratch resistance of any other metal in jewelry.
-Tungsten's high polish finish gives it a shine that will last a lifetime.
-Tungsten is also hypoallergenic.
Diamond and Gemstone Enhancements
Why Are Some Stones Enhanced?
It is said that 90% of all gem quality stones have been color or clarity enhanced in some way. In actuality all gemstones are enhanced if only by cutting and polishing them. The simple answer is "to make them as beautiful as they can possibly be". When done well, the enhancement is invisible and some types can even strengthen the original stone.
How Are Stones Enhanced?
There are as many ways of enhancing gemstones, as there are stones. The more common ways are irradiation, heating, oiling, special cuts and filling.
Many gemstones are irradiated to change colors or redistribute pigment evenly. Many of the best Sapphires have been heated again to even and develop the color. There are few if any Emeralds that are not oiled. The oil fills up the fractures and cracks of the stone, which are part of the stones natural matrix. The value of a perfect unoiled Emerald would realize many times over that of a perfect Diamond. There are currently only three in existence.
Should I Take Precautions With An Enhanced Stone?
There are some simple rules that should be observed as with most Gemstone, Gold and Platinum jewelry. Do not clean or expose the stone to acid, ammonia-based cleaners, or harsh household chemicals, which can effect Gold and Platinum settings as well. Do not expose the stone to direct heat of 1500 Degrees Celsius or higher such as with a jeweler's torch. If you have your piece altered, tell your jeweler that the stone is enhanced so they can properly care for your jewelry. Just follow a few simple steps that should be applied to all jewelry anyway, and your stone will give you pleasure for a lifetime and a legacy beyond.
Caring For Your Fine Jewelry
Cleaning
Hand lotions, hair styling product and everyday grime all leave enough film on your Diamonds and jewelry to keep them from looking their best. If you wait a long time between cleaning those materials can accumulate into a thick layer on the back of your Diamond or gemstone blocking light and making it appear dull and lifeless.
Diamonds are the hardest substance known to man, however that doesn't mean we can bring them back to life with any old cleanser. Coatings and other materials used to enhance Diamonds and Gemstones can sometimes be removed by harsh chemicals, ammonia or even vigorous scrubbing, just to name a few. So take care when its time to make your jewelry sparkle.
1. Soak your jewelry in a solution of mild liquid detergent and water. For even better results use hot water.
2. If necessary use a soft brush (an old toothbrush is perfect) to remove dirt buildup. Never use a brush with stiff bristles as it can scratch and damage your jewelry.
3. Thoroughly rinse in warm water and dry with a lint-free cloth.
Protecting Your Diamonds and Fine Jewelry
Avoid wearing jewelry while in contact with household chemicals such as chlorine bleach. Chemicals can discolor and damage your gold and platinum jewelry mountings.
Most jewelers recommend removing your jewelry prior to any rough manual work. Stones can be jarred loose, and although Diamonds are nature's hardest substance, they can still be chipped.
When storing your jewelry, be careful that pieces do not tumble against each other to avoid scratching or dulling. Diamonds can scratch other diamonds.
We recommend you have a jeweler professionally clean and inspect your fine jewelry at lease once every six months. This also guarantees the workmanship of your purchase for life.
Your renter's or homeowner's policy may offer coverage for theft of your jewelry, but do you know your policies limit? Insurance companies usually require an extra rider or clause to your homeowners policy for any jewelry valued over $300, and will probably require documentation (or a schedule) of your jewelry items. Be sure to get your Diamond insured immediately, and make sure your insurance covers you for the damage, loss and current replacement value of your Diamond. Often times "all risk" coverage can be obtained with little or no deductible.
Interesting Diamond Facts and Characteristics
How Are Diamonds Formed?
Diamonds form about 75-120 miles below the earth's surface in the molten rock, which provides the right amount of pressure and heat to transform carbon into Diamond. Diamonds are usually formed under large, stable and cooler plates call "Cratons".
Diamonds with a melting point of 6500 degrees Fahrenheit are a crystalline form of carbon. Carbon is crystallized in tremendous heat and pressure in the boiling magma. In order for a Diamond to be created, carbon must be placed under at least 435,000 pounds per square inch of pressure at a temperature of at least 752 degrees Fahrenheit (400 Celsius). If conditions drop below either of these two points, graphite will be created. At depths of 93 miles or more, pressure builds to about 725,000 psi and heat can exceed 2,200 F (1,200 C). Eruptions cause Diamonds to surface, creating kimberlite pipes.
Kimberlite is named after Kimberley, South Africa, where these pipes were first found. Most of these eruptions occurred many years ago.
Kimberlite Pipes are created as magma flows through deep fractures in the Earth. The magma inside the kimberlite pipes acts like an elevator, pushing the Diamonds and other rocks and minerals through the mantle and crust in just a few hours. These eruptions were short, but many times more powerful than volcanic eruptions. It is estimated that magma in these eruptions originated at depths three times deeper than the magma source for volcanoes. The magma eventually cooled inside these kimberlite pipes, leaving behind conical veins of kimberlite rock that contain Diamonds. Kimberlite is bluish rock that Diamond miners look for when seeking new Diamond deposits. The surface area of a Diamond-bearing Kimberlite Pipe, ranges form 2 to 146 hectares (5-361 acres).
Diamonds may also be found in riverbeds, which are called Alluvial Diamond Sites. These are Diamonds that originate in kimberlite pipes, but get moved by geological activity. Glaciers and water can also move Diamonds thousands of miles from their original location.
Alluvial deposits in India and Brazil were mined to supply Europe through the 1700's. An alluvial deposit is a buildup of alluvium or sediment. In 1976 a Diamond-bearing lamproite pipe was found in Australia (the Argyle Mine) and in the 1990's the Ekati kimberlite was found under a Canadian lake, which has led to the location of other diamondiferous fields in Canada. Today the most significant Diamond producers are Africa, Russia, Australia and Canada. Asia and South America are also commercially important. Alluvial Diamonds are mined in riverbeds, coastal and deep-sea operations, and hard rock Diamonds are mined using an open pit or underground process.
Maybe you've heard the saying he or she "is a Diamond in the rough." Even after the incomprehensible pressure, intense heat, and the rigorous mining process, the Diamond's true beauty can only be realized by the gentle cutting way of the master's hand. The first image below is that of a natural uncut rough Diamond. The second image is an illustration of how two Diamonds of excellent proportions might be cut. This type of cut might yield only a single one carat and a smaller .50 carat, making the estimated total weight of both stones approximately 1.5 carats. The third image is an illustration of how two Diamonds might be cut to retain maximum carat weight, but that loses ideal proportions. In this example total yield might be two Diamonds of approximately one carat each, making the total carat weight of both stones 2 carats.
How Are Diamonds Cut?
Special techniques are used to cut and shape a Diamond. There are four basic techniques uses by most Diamond cutters:
Cleaving – To cut a rough Diamond down to a manageable size the cutter must cleave it along the Diamond's tetrahedral plane where it is the weakest. The cutter carves a sharp groove along the plane, places a steel blade in the groove, and forcefully strikes it cutting the rough Diamond in two.
Sawing – Sometimes Diamonds have to be cut where there is no point of weakness, which cannot be done with cleaving. Instead, the cutter saws the Diamond using a phosphor-bronze blade rotating at about 15,000 rpm's. Lasers can also be used to saw Diamonds, but the process takes hours. During the sawing step, the cutter decides which parts of the Diamond will become the table and the girdle. Then proceeds with cutting.
Bruiting/Cutting – This technique gives Diamonds their shape. When Diamonds are cut by hand, the technique is called bruiting. Cutting means bruiting by machine. When the cutter shapes a Diamond by hand, he relies on the Diamond's harness as his tool. He uses Diamond to cut Diamond. Small stick-like instruments with cement-filled bowls at the tip hold the Diamond. It is then inserted in the cement with just one corner exposed. Using one of these sticks in each hand, the cutter rubs the exposed Diamond parts together to bruit them. In the mechanical process, the Diamond is placed in a lathe, and another Diamond in the lathe rubes against it to create the rough finish of the girdle. Some shapes, like round and radiant require more facets to properly reflect light, so they must be fashioned from a bigger rough diamond. As a result, these cut styles are more expensive than others are.
Polishing – To create the Diamond's finished look, the cutter places it onto the arm above a rotating polishing wheel. The wheel is coated with an abrasive diamond powder that smoothes the Diamond as it is pressed against the wheel. Thus creating the gorgeous look of the Diamonds we all know and love.
Diamond Statistics
It is the molecular structure of Diamonds that make them so hard. They are made of carbon atoms linked together in a lattice structure. Each carbon atom shares electrons with four other carbon atoms, forming a tetrahedral unit. The tetrahedral bonding of five carbon atoms forms an incredibly strong molecule. Graphite, another form of carbon, isn't as strong as Diamond because the carbon
Element Composition - Carbon (C)
Density - 3.51 g/cm3 (specific gravity=3.51)
Hardness - 10 on the Mohs scale of mineral hardness, which makes the Diamond the hardest natural mineral.
Natural and Enhanced Colors - Colorless or white, yellow, brown, black, blue, pink, orange, violet, red and green.
Ultraviolet – Colorless to yellowish.
Refractive Index - 2.4175 under the yellow light of a sodium lamp.
Optical Transmission - Transparent over broad spectrum of the electromagnetic spectrum, it is an excellent material for optical windows.
Optical Properties – Singly Refractive.
Thermal Conductivity - Superb, 5-25 watts / centimeter-degrees C (at 300K), 4 times greater than copper which makes it an excellent thermal conductor.
Electrical Conductivity - 0-100 ohm-cm (resistivity at 300 K), an insulator. Depending on the color of the Diamond, it can also be a good conductor. Colored Diamonds have impurities in them, which make them great conductors.
Because of these qualities, Diamonds are being used in many industries such as cutting, polishing, grinding and even used in integrated circuits.
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