EDUCATION

                     
The number of carats in a diamond refers to its weight.  Historically, a one-carat diamond was equal in weight to a seed or bean from the Mediterranean carob tree.  In the Far East, a one-carat diamond was equal to the weight of four grains of rice.  Today a metric carat is 200 milligrams, or 0.02 grams in weight.  A carat may be divided into 100 “points”, so a .75 carat diamond is sometimes referred to as a “3 grainer” or a “3/4 carat diamond”.

The heavier or larger a diamond is, the more valuable or the rarer it will be.  Color, clarity, and cut, also determine its value.  Only one diamond in a thousand is over one carat in weight, and on average, over 250 tons of ore needs to be mined to find just this one gem quality stone.  The higher price per carat paid for a larger diamond, reflects this greater rarity.



                 
Sometimes a larger diamond may appear more brilliant than a smaller one.  This is because light must travel a further distance through a larger diamond.  The result is a prism effect that your eye registers as more brilliant.  The setting you select may also make a diamond appear larger or smaller than its actual weight.

Many people confuse carat with karat.  Carat refers to the weight of a diamond, while karat refers to the purity of gold, not weight.  For example, you may see a one-carat diamond set in 14 karat gold, also referred to as 14K.

The following provides an approximate guide to the relative size in millimeters and weight of a round brilliant cut diamond of ideal proportions.  Please note exact size and weight will vary due to many factors.  
    


Nearly all diamonds have some tint of yellow or brown.  This color is entirely natural from the time it was made.  To accurately determine a diamond’s color grade, the diamond is viewed table or topside down under controlled conditions.  It is then compared to other “Master Stones” in which color has been predetermined. 




The most commonly accepted scale for measuring color uses letters ranging from D (colorless or white) through Z (light yellow).  Outside of this range, diamonds are called “fancy color” and can be blue, pink, yellow, or even red or green.  Within the D-Z range, diamonds are graded by their relative lack of color.  Although most gem-quality diamonds appear to be colorless to the untrained eye, there are subtle differences in the shade.  Diamonds with no traces of body color are extremely rare.  
                                                                      

While flawless diamonds are the rarest, a diamond need not be flawless to be absolutely gorgeous!  Unlike carat weight, the clarity of a diamond is a matter of judgment by a trained gemologist and/or laboratory.  Very few diamonds are truly without inclusions.  Nearly all have internal imperfections (inclusions) or surface irregularities (blemishes).  These characteristics of nature give each stone its own unique signature or fingerprint, which help to identify it as a 100% natural diamond.  

Many people make clarity the least important of the 4 C’s when purchasing their diamonds.  The rationale is obvious, when your loved one shows the diamond to his or her friends, the likelihood that one will pull out a 10x microscope to examine for inclusions is very slim.  Without magnification, some SI clarity diamonds may look similar to VVS diamonds.   It really comes down to personal preference and what you value most in a diamond.  We offer a wide variety of color and clarity grades to meet all your diamond needs and desires.

FL, IF -  Flawless / Internally Flawless

Diamonds in this clarity grade, only have external flaws which may be removed by further polishing of the stone.

VVS1, VVS2  - Very Very Slightly Included

Diamonds In this clarity grade, usually only an expert can detect inclusions or flaws under 10x’s magnification. By definition, if you can see a flaw from the top of the diamond, it is a VVS2 or lower. Otherwise, if only detected when viewing from the bottom of the stone, then it’s typically a VVS1.

VS1, VS2 - Very Slightly Included

Diamonds in this clarity grade are typically “eye clean” or free from visual inclusions with the naked eye. Under 10x’s magnification inclusions will be very slight.

SI1, SI2, SI3 - Slightly Included

Depending on the diamond, these clarity grades may also be appear “eye clean” or free from visual inclusions or flaws. Under 10x’s magnification some inclusions will be seen.

I1 - Imperfect

Depending on the diamond, in this clarity grade inclusions usually become fairly visible. How visible depends on the individual stone, the location and type of inclusions. A white feather may not be offensive or that noticeable to an onlooker, though you will most likely know its there.

I2 - Imperfect

Diamonds in this clarity range have inclusions that will be seen with the naked eye. Consider avoiding I2 and I3 stones.

I3 - Imperfect

Diamonds in this clarity range will have larger and more numerous inclusions that will be seen with the naked eye.


The cut of a diamond refers to its shape, as well as its angles, proportions, polish and symmetry. The way a diamond is cut determines how light enters and leaves the stone, which determines how much “life” or “fire” a diamond will have.




An Ideal Cut Round Brilliant Diamond  has 58 different surfaces, or facets. Those on the crown or top gather light into the center of the stone, while the pavilion facets bounce the light back and forth before reflecting it back out through the crown.

Only a small deviation of the angles or shapes of the facets will allow light to “leak” from the stone and cause it to lose much of its natural brilliance. This also occurs if too many facets are cut into the stone.




Depth Percentage  – is the depth of the diamond (table to culet) divided by the width. The higher the depth percentage the deeper the diamond, while a lower depth percentage indicates a shallower stone. For example, a diamond with a 3.95mm table and 6.73mm width, would have a table percentage of 59%. A good target table percentage for round diamonds is 53-59%. Do keep in mind a smaller table, should not be confused with a small diameter. In a round shape diamond, generally a larger diameter and smaller table percentage will give the most beautiful look. It is also interesting to note that “round” diamonds are usually not perfect circles. The length and width measurements may be slightly different, though usually undetectable without a measuring caliper.

Table Size – is the length of the table located at the crown of a diamond.
Girdle Thickness – is the thickness of the girdle  at the side of the diamond.
Crown Height – is the measurement from the girdle to the table.
Pavilion Depth – is the measurement from the girdle to the culet.
Total Depth – is the crown height, plus the pavilion depth.
Crown Angle – is the angle of the crown relative to the girdle.
Pavilion Angle – is the angle of the pavilion relative to the girdle.
Culet – is the bottom tip of the diamond.
Star Length – is the length of the star facet located at the crown.
Half Facet Length – is the length of the pavilion facet.
Upper Girdle Facets – are above the girdle and on the top of the diamond.
Kite Facets – are at the top of round diamonds and are shaped like a kite.
Star Facets – are on the top, closer to the side adjacent to the kite facets.
Lower Girdle Facets– are below the girdle, and the lower top of the diamond.
Pavilion Facets– are located below the girdle of the diamond.


Polish is the measure of polishing lines on the surface of a diamond. These lines are caused by microscopic diamond crystals pulled across the diamond facet by the polishing wheel during the cutting process. Polish lines are similar to streaks left on a car after it has been waxed. Diamond polish is usually graded in one of five categories: excellent, very good, good, fair or poor. For round brilliant and fancy-cut diamonds, a polish grade of good or higher is generally preferred.


Symmetry refers to the external balance and alignment of facets. Girdles are not always perfectly round, nor are tables always perfect octagons. Sometimes facets are distorted or may have unclear end points. Tables may tilt towards the girdle plane, be off-center, or even look warped. Culets may be off center while bezels and pavilion mains may not be directly opposite each other. Diamond symmetry is usually graded into one of five categories: excellent, very good, good, fair or poor. For round diamonds, a symmetry grade of very good or higher is generally preferred. For fancy-cut diamonds, a symmetry grade of good or higher is generally fine.






The princess cut diamond is generally square in shape, with 90-degree angles on each corner. It has a tremendous amount of brilliance, second only to round cuts. Princess cut diamonds can vary greatly in how square or rectangular they appear. For a princess diamond that is square, look for length-to-width ratios between 1.00 and 1.05. If you prefer more of a rectangular shape, look for length-to-width ratios greater than 1.10. For the highest level brilliance, it is recommended the table be between 65-80%, with depth between 65-75%.






The asscher cut diamond often referred to as a square emerald cut, has cropped corners, and was designed in 1902 by the Asscher Brothers of Holland. It is recommended that the table and depth percentages measure the same as in an emerald cut.


The oval cut diamond has stunning brilliance due primarily to its many beautiful facets, similar to those found in round brilliant cuts. Invented in 1960, some believe elongated oval shapes appear larger than their actually carat weight. For the greatest amount of brilliance, a length to width ratio between 1.33-1.66 is recommended, with the table between 60- 70%.



The marquise cut diamond is another elongated cut with pointed ends. It was created for France’s Louis XIV who wanted a diamond that would compare to the smile of the Marquise De Pompadour. Like the oval shape, the marquise's visual length is sometimes believed to make some diamonds appear larger than they actually are. The recommended length to width ratio is 1.50-2.25, with table and depth at 53-60% and 50-65% respectively.



The pear shape diamond is a combination of oval and marquise cuts. This gorgeous sparkling shape typically has nice proportions, refracts light well, and can be very visually elongating to the eye. Suggested length to width ratio's are between 1.40-1.75, with the table between 53-60% and width at 50-65%.



The radiant cut diamond is typically rectangle is shape, with clipped corners and many fine back cuts. Radiant cut diamonds can vary greatly in how square or rectangular they appear. For a radiant cut diamond that is square, look for length-to-width ratios between 1.00 and 1.05. If you prefer more of the traditional rectangular shape, look for length-to-width ratios between 1.12-2.00. For the highest level brilliance, it is recommended the table be between 65-80%, with depth at 65-75% .



The heart shape diamond may be hard to find, though it's considered to be the most sentimental of all diamond shapes. If you're looking for a diamond as unique as your love, the heart shape is an excellent choice. The recommended length to width ratio is 0.90-1.10 with the table between 53-65%, and depth between 50-63% . For the nicest look, make sure the stone has even lobes and a defined outline.


The cushion cut diamond is an antique cut, and is sometimes referred to as a pillow cut or candlelight diamond. Cushion cut diamonds have larger facets and more rounded corners than most cuts as to increase their sparkle under candlelight.


The triangle cut diamond first designed in Amsterdam, is cut with three symmetrical sides. The corners of a triangle cut may be pointed or rounded as in trillion cuts. The body will vary depending on the stone’s characteristics and the cutters’ preference.


The baguette diamond may be cut straight or tapered. Although straight baguette diamonds may be used as center stones, they are more typically used as accent diamonds in rings, pendants and other fine jewelry settings.